Healthy Materials Series: Organic Cotton

Cotton has been cultivated for over 5,000 years, with its origins tracing back to the ancient civilizations of the Indus Valley, Egypt and Peru, where it was hand-spun and woven into textiles long before industrialization. The later mechanization of cotton farming came at a cost. According to the International Cotton Advisory Committee, conventional cotton accounts for nearly 11 percent of the world’s agricultural insecticide use and requires vast amounts of synthetic fertilizers, depleting soil health and contaminating waterways.

The excessive irrigation needed for cotton crops has led to severe environmental and social consequences, such as the steady draining of the Indus River in India and Pakistan. The Aral Sea, located on the border of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan and once the third largest sea in the world, has been devastated by cotton extraction since the 1960s, shrinking by 80 percent. Additionally, a study conducted in Burkina Faso, West Africa, found that synthetic insecticide exposure poses health risks to farm workers, increasing rates of respiratory disease and pesticide poisoning.

Organic cotton is grown without synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or genetically modified seeds, relying instead on natural farming methods that support soil health and ecological balance. First cultivated in the 1980s as part of a movement toward sustainable agriculture, organic cotton enhances biodiversity and promotes healthier ecosystems.

As awareness of the environmental and health impacts of conventional cotton grows, the industry is shifting towards more responsible production methods. Many brands now prioritize organic cotton, working with ethical farms and adopting environmentally-conscious dyeing and finishing processes. This commitment extends beyond textiles to include bedding, bath linens and everyday essentials, offering consumers high-quality products that support a more sustainable supply chain.

Health Impact

Organic cotton is free from man-made pesticides, weed killers and chemical fertilizers, reducing the risk of skin irritation and allergic reactions caused by chemical residues in conventional cotton textiles. Additionally, it does not undergo harsh chemical treatments such as formaldehyde finishing, flame retardants or synthetic softeners, which can off-gas and contribute to poor indoor air quality. Because organic cotton is naturally breathable and hypoallergenic, it is particularly beneficial for sensitive skin, making it an excellent choice for bedding, towels and baby products.

Environmental Impact

Organic cotton farming significantly reduces environmental harm compared to conventional cotton. It is grown without artificial chemicals or growth additives, preventing soil and water contamination, and relies on crop rotation and composting to maintain soil health. Additionally, organic cotton typically requires less water, as healthier soil retains moisture more efficiently, and the crop is often rain-fed. The absence of toxic agrochemicals also benefits surrounding ecosystems. However, organic cotton still requires land and water to grow, and if processed using conventional dyes and treatments, some of its sustainability benefits can be diminished and toxin exposure is increased. Supporting companies which use natural, non-toxic dyes, ensures that organic cotton remains an environmentally responsible choice.

Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Free from synthetic pesticides, fertilizers and chemical finishes.

• Naturally breathable and hypoallergenic, reducing skin irritation.

• Supports healthier soil and water conservation.

• Safe for sensitive skin and allergy sufferers.

• Promotes a healthier environment for farm laborers.

Cons:

• Can be more expensive than conventional cotton.

• Organic certification does not always mean natural dyes or finishes.

• Still requires significant land and water use.

• Less readily available than conventional cotton.

Typical Finishes, Dyes and Adhesives

Although organic cotton itself is free from synthetic chemicals, some products made with organic cotton are still treated with dyes or finishes that can introduce harmful substances. Conventional textile dyes may contain heavy metals or azo compounds, which can leach into the environment. Additionally, wrinkle-resistant or shrink-resistant finishes often involve formaldehyde-based treatments that can off-gas over time. Some adhesives used in organic cotton mattresses and upholstery may contain synthetic resins or flame retardants.

Terms to Avoid

Be cautious of terms like ‘wrinkle-resistant’, ‘stain-resistant’ or ‘easy-care’, as these often indicate the use of chemical treatments such as formaldehyde-based finishes or Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS) coatings. Similarly, ‘antimicrobial’ or ‘odor-resistant’ textiles may contain silver nanoparticles or other chemical additives that can pose health risks. Some ‘organic cotton blends’ may include synthetic fibers like polyester, reducing the purity and breathability of the fabric. Instead, look for ‘100 percent organic cotton’ with certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or OEKO-TEX certified to ensure the fabric is truly free from harmful substances.

Practical Tips

• Look for certifications: Choose GOTS or OEKO-TEX organic cotton to ensure fiber purity and sustainability.

• Avoid synthetic finishes: Steer clear of textiles labeled as ‘wrinkle-resistant’, ‘stain-resistant’ or ‘antimicrobial’.

• Prioritize natural dyes: Seek out brands that use plant-based or low-impact dyes rather than synthetic, chemically intensive alternatives.

• Check for purity: Ensure products are labeled ‘100 percent organic cotton’ rather than blends with synthetic fibers.

• Support responsible brands: Choose companies that are committed to ethical, sustainable and chemical-free organic cotton products. Brands like Autumn Sonata, Aizome, Obasan and Aiayu who specialize in organic cotton bath and bedding materials, ensure sustainability without compromising comfort.

Feature Image: Kelli/Adobe

Photography: Obasan, Nopparat/Adobe, Belogorodov/Adobe, Sergey + Marina/Adobe, Aiayu, AIZOME, Autumn Sonata